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The Mother Church – a long over due visit to the Mapparium

Monday, January 30th, 2012

My daughter Vitoria and I decided to have an adventure as we often do. We spent far too long looking at Google Maps, scouring Boston Central and The Globe for something interesting to do on a recent sunny day. Then I remembered my friend and fellow Realtor, David Hannon at Prudential recently reminded me about The Mapparium at the Christian Science Mother Church near the Boston Symphony Hall on Massachusetts Ave. In the 17 plus years I have lived in Jamaica Plain, I have for some unexplained reason, never been there.

Christian Science Mother Church

Christian Science Mother Church

If you haven’t had the pleasure, I would strongly recommend it. To be frank, it’s a little intimidating. I know the church well as it is quite imposing and impossible to miss as you traverse Mass Ave. I think the lack of adornment, grass, fences or much of anything until you reach the front door helps accentuate the sheer mass of the building.

Our goal was a huge globe in which you are allowed passage through the center! We excitedly marched up to the front door and a man with a beautiful smile and outstretched arm greeted us. He told us there was a service going on but we could take an elevator up and catch the end of it. I was worried he would think I was some wacko because I was wearing a green army jacket, fur-lined Elmer Fudd hat and carrying a huge camera. Frankly I was expecting two men in black suits, wearing wires to grab my arms and usher me out.

I was curious about the interior architecture so I said, “what the heck.” The elevator doors opened to a mezzanine and the sun poured in, was funneled down to nearly nothing as it was pinched through a few portals to the interior. As soon as you pass the first few pews the space opens up again to a breath-taking room. This would be about where the railing is above the columns in the picture to the right. A woman kindly, but with intent thrust a hymn book into my hands and motioned to an empty seat. I have to be honest, that I have heard better singing but that wasn’t why I was there.

I’ve been to churches, cathedrals and basilicas all over the world and this is my favorite. Not unadorned by any means but intentional. I must admit I was drawn to the powerful architecture. A stark contrast to the interior of the Trinity Episcopal Church on Copley Plaza for example. This was brilliant but focused. Dare I say “American” if there is such a thing?

As soon as there was a pause in the music we took our leave and sought out to find the Mapparium. You’ll find the giant globe more directly by entering the wing to the left of the church (standing in front facing it) where you are greeted by a reception desk. Tours head out every 15 minutes or so. Buy your ticket and head around the corner the lobby to meet your guide. I’m not sure if all the guides are lacking enthusiasm, but ours certainly was. No matter, show us the map young lady. A solid looking door opens and you are lead into the middle of the Mapparium. A long gangway bisects the globe apparently suspended by nothing but it’s attachment points at either end. A light and sound

Christian Science Mapparium

The interior of the Mapparium at the Christian Science Mother Church

show commence impressing upon the viewer just how big (or small) our planet is. The experience is pleasantly disorienting. When the show is over in a few minutes, you are allowed to discuss whatever nonsense you like with your comrades to test out the “surround sound” qualities of the globe when standing directly in the center. Your voice comes back you with more vigor than it left I attest! The glass panels seemingly reverberate it back at your chest and you feel as if speaking has become an out of body experience. The whole experience was over far sooner than I’d hoped – but I’ll be back. Probably with the next out-of-town-visitors that I must entertain.

Just another wonderful treasure we have in Boston. I feel very lucky to be able to roll out of my front door, walk a couple blocks to the Forest Hills T and within 15 minutes from Jamaica Plain, all of Boston is at my finger tips. I would have gotten better pictures (sorry) but it was absolutely freezing! I couldn’t stay outdoors for more than a few minutes. The wind through this corridor is very strong and will push you right over.

I’d really like to go back to the church at some point when it is not in use. I really didn’t explore it at all for obvious reasons but it deserves it’s own trip. I did my best to read and listen to all of the material they had but to be honest, I’m still not really sure what Christian Science is all about. No, I did not see Tom Cruise, but yes, I was watching for him.

The Christian Science Church with Boston skyline

The Mother Church with the Boston skyline in the background

Double Murder in Jamaica Plain

Tuesday, May 3rd, 2011
644 South Street stone farm house

Bussey Woods Murders c.1865

Sunday, July 4, 2004 at 07:15AM
Jamaica Plain Historical Society

With the proliferation of weapons in crowded American neighborhoods in our time, murders-even of innocent children-seem part of news reports all too often. Has our area ever seen anything so gruesome in the past? Since this column is a mirror of things past, violent crimes must be included in its impartial light.

Even without combing police reports, one double murder in Jamaica Plain during its seemingly bucolic days stands out chillingly. In the words of the 1865-66 West Roxbury Town Report, “The murders in the town in the month of June, which so shocked the community, have given us an unenviable notoriety.” The killings took place in what is now the Arboretum.

For those who despair about current news reports, the words of a local resident speaking in 1878 of the murders set a continuity, “Of the many dark deeds of blood which have disgraced this age few have been fraught with more harrowing details than the one enacted right here.”

Isabella and John Joyce were the children of a Lynn dressmaker recently widowed. On Monday, June 12, 1865, they left their aunt’s home in the South End with a picnic basket and carfare for a day in the famed Jamaica Plain countryside.

They called on their grandmother at Newland and West Concord Streets and, at 11 a.m., left her house (still standing in the South End) never to be seen again alive. Their announced destination was May’s Woods along the present Arborway. Night came, and the unescorted picnickers (an action not then considered dangerous) did not return. A vigorous search was immediately made but was fruitless due to all the June greenery. It was not until the next Sunday that the children were found accidentally by some hikers in the Bussey Woods.

View of Bussey Brook in the Arnold ArboretumA view of Bussey Brook in the Arnold Arboretum, taken in 1949 by Professor Karl Sax, who was the Arboretum’s Director at the time. Photograph from the Archives of the Arnold Arboretum. Used with permission from the website of the Institute for Cultural Landscape Studies of the Arnold Arboretum
©The President and Fellows of Harvard College.

The Bussey Woods were part of an old 400-acre farm on both sides of Bussey Street, given by Benjamin Bussey to Harvard College for the horticultural institute. After several gyrations, 120 acres of the farm and woods would become the Arnold Arboretum with the Bussey Institute (now the State Lab) on one side. Somehow the children had arrived at the far end of the South Street side of the present Arboretum and had sought higher ground for a good view and their picnic. But this was before the grounds were planted and groomed by the Arboretum after 1882.

Isabella, age 15, was found in the hollow of a rock atop a hill. She had been stabbed 28 times, and (by contemporary account) “the murderer attempted a deed upon the body of the little girl” despite her efforts to fend him of. Her brother, age 8, was found later a quarter mile away by Bussey Brook in a condition that sickened Civil War veterans who viewed the body. It was surmised that just before noon he had left his sister, fallen, and finally been attacked by his sister’s murderer.

The children were brought back to Lynn for burial. Much sorrow and many efforts to find the criminal were generated by the shocking event-just two months after the assassination of President Lincoln. Rewards were offered by all authorities. Seven suspects were interrogated but released. The many visitors to the girl’s murder site raised a memorial cairn. In the process, any further clues were obliterated, with forensics still in its infancy. For the protection of all, a police beat was established in the Bussey Woods.

In March 1866 the Boston Weekly Voice reported a possible break in the case. A man of violent disposition had been arrested in August 1865 for burglary. While being held for trial in Fitchburg, he plotted to murder his guard and to escape with others. Known as Scratch Gravel, he stated that any man who had done “the Roxbury job” would not hesitate to kill again. His bravado about the children’s murder revolted another prisoner, who foiled the escape by telling authorities about Gravel’s entire conversation.

Upon his removal to State Prison for the burglary conviction, officials there attempted to get Gravel to speak directly-but in vain. He was transferred to a light work detail in hopes that he might talk with a trusted prisoner-again in vain. Finally a detective of supposed Southern sympathy was placed in Gravel’s cell in February 1866. Gravel liked his cellmate, and soon they were hatching a plan for escape. Gravel referred to “the Roxbury children” but never confessed to their murders.

The oddly named prisoner turned out to be an adopted lad, born in Boston, who went to sea at age 15. He had entered the Confederate Army after being pardoned from the South Carolina State Prison. Then he joined the Union Naval Forces, deserting one ship after another. A man like him was seen at Taft’s hotel in Roslindale less than a mile from Bussey Woods. The knife taken from him at Fitchburg could have wounded the Joyce children.

Aerial view of Bussey WoodsAn aerial view of Bussey Woods in early days of the Arnold Arboretum.Used with permission from the American Environmental Photographs Collection, [AEP Image Number, e.g., AEP-MIN73], Department of Special Collections, University of Chicago Library.

Yet, the Boston police were not convinced by the prison warden’s reports that Gravel was their man. All his information could have come entirely from newspaper reports. If no stronger evidence came forth, Scratch Gravel (alias Charles Aaron Dodge) would be proved more of a braggart fool who embellished the basic information in the newspapers for his own reasons. Thus rested the matter of Jamaica Plain ‘s most heinous and unsolved murder until it took another bizarre turn.

The details of our area’s “terrible atrocity and barbarity,” fueled “a feeling of unprecedented horror” in the words of a book about the murders, published in Boston in 1878, some 13 years after the barbarity. “In a section as civilized, a community so guarded, a population so abundant, in the marginal outline of a great city” how could it have ever happen, asked the book.

The book’s author was Henry Johnson Brent (1811-80), who had founded and edited the New York City magazine, Knickerbocker, widely enjoyed from 1833 through the Civil War. In June 1865 he happened to be staying with friends within a few hundred yards of the murders. He wrote his book “Was It A Ghost” to focus attention again on the twin murders that had gone unsolved for more than a decade despite a vigilant police chief.

Brent himself had immediately become a suspect in the case because a boy told police that he had often seen a man of Brent’s description in the Bussey Woods with a knife and gun. Fortunately, Brent was also an artist, whose palette knife and gun practice was known in the neighborhood. He was also acquainted with the police force. For lack of any solid evidence, yet another suspect in the murders was free to go.

By the end of June 1865 the search for the murderer had worn itself out. A week or so later, in a bizarre personal twist, Brent saw a male apparition on the far side of his host’s property between Bussey and Motley Woods. This meeting, described in his book’s Chapter 10, will appear in the next column. Brent truly felt that the event was something beyond his ability to reconcile by the usual rules of explanation and that it deserved publication.

He had gone down to meet his host returning from Boston via Forest Hills, only to learn later that he had returned home via Centre Street at 10 p.m. Brent revisited the site of the apparition at 9 p.m., within half an hour of the event, but nothing more was seen nor found. Initially the apparition was definitely connected by Brent with his host, but during this second visit, which included a walk to the rock where Isabella Joyce had been murdered, Brent suddenly connected it with the murders.

He went with his story to a perplexed police chief, who urged him to publish it. The chief’s reaction was whether Brent recognized the male ghost. Was it a witness to the murders of the children’s recently deceased father?

Over time, Brent felt that he did know the face, as he was familiar with the police evidence. He never named a suspect but published his book.

He brought his book out so much later after the case had grown cold once he knew what clues the police had and after much thought. He hoped to stir up a renewed investigation and to goad the murderer, if still alive, into remorse and confession. The ghost story is the centerpiece of his book-rightly so, given the title. Yet “this book would never have been written if that misty figure had not confronted me on that night.”

Many Jamaica Plain residents must have had theories about the murders. Brent, believing the murderer still alive, did not state his complete details. The change from May’s Woods (as announced by the children) to the more secluded Bussey Woods prompted a suspicion that the children were accompanied by someone they knew. The streetcar fare was found near the girl; someone had paid their fare. There was little screaming, as men were mowing in the area and heard nothing.

In his latest chapter Brent notes the results of séances-so popular at the time-reported in the spiritualistic press. He notes a letter said to have been written by the murdered girl and another by her father. A communication from the boy also circulated. Though unacquainted with spiritualism, Brent felt in a sense of fair play that he had to include them with his ghostly account. He felt very bad that he had not been in the Bussey Woods at noontime of June 12, 1865, doing some target practice or painting.

Brent names his host only as Dan. Lot maps of the period show only two properties surrounded by the Motley-Bussey tracts: the Skinners and the Weatherbees by Centre and Walter Streets. Dan must have been a son in one of these families, which owned “a house that looked out on Centre Street with the rear giving view of a meadow watered by a tiny rivulet and on up to the Bussey Woods.”

Our author ends wondering about the ghost, “So strange an occurrence does not happen without an intention. What that intention was, I for one, if only one, shall patiently wait to see.” Two years later Henry J. Brent died in New York City with the murders yet unsolved. The writer in the Boston Sunday Times in November 1878 was incorrect in his reading of the book in his statement that Brent felt the children were murdered by something supernatural.

This brutal event, like so many others, has passed into legend. In April 1936 Boston Herald artist Jack Frost ran a sketch of 644 South Street in Roslindale. In his explanatory paragraph in his “Fancy This” column he states that a boarder at the house murdered two children in the nearby woods, then barricaded himself in his room and killed himself in remorse. So goes the last twist in Jamaica Plain’s most heinous crime.

Sources: H.J. Brent, “Was it a ghost;” Appleton’s Encyclopedia of National Biography; “Boston Herald,” April 2, 1936; “Boston Sunday Times,” Nov. 24, 1878, Boston Weekly Voice, March 15, 1856; Boston Sun Times, November 24, 1878; West Roxbury Town Report 1865-66, pg. 14.

By Walter H. Marx. Reprinted with permission from the November 5 and November 19, 1993 Jamaica Plain Gazette. Copyright © Gazette Publications, Inc.

Arboretum Ghost Story

The following event took place on a moonlit night at 8:30 p.m. some three weeks after the brutal murders of the Joyce children on June 12, 1865, in the Bussey Woods (now part of the Arnold Arboretum). It is described by JP visitor, H.J. Brent, in a book he wrote in 1878 entitled “Was It a Ghost?” in chapter 10, here abridged for the reader.

Upon a still and clear night I went out of the cottage, and, taking two dogs with me, strolled down through the stable yard and past the garden, until I came to the brow of the hill that formed the apex of my friend’s grasslands. The brow of the hill was flat all about me and at the base ran off into a meadow, the opposite side of which was overlooked by the Bussey Woods.

From where I stood, several pines rose out of the even surface of the forest, marking (as with an uplifted hand spread out) the place where the girl’s murder had been done. On my left was Motley’s Woods, drawing up with its intense shadows close to the dividing wall. From the wall to where I stood all was clear and distinct, save where the shadows fell over the ground.

The wall and the wood on my left ran down to that corner at Bussey Creek, which was only a short distance (about 50 feet) from the spot where the boy had fallen. Some 250 yards away and close to the corner just mentioned was a clump of trees, and then straight before me without an intervening object, the dark wood gloomed over the rock of the girl’s death. My purpose was simply to take the cooling air from the winnowing trees.

It was the habit of my host, who did business in Boston, of leaving the train at Forest Hills Station at 9 o ‘clock as a general thing and keeping to South Street until he got to the bottom of the hill near to where the brook crosses the road. He would then enter the lowlands at the outskirts of Bussey Woods and thence follow the path and up the hillside covered by Motley’s Woods, keeping close to the wall until he reached the point of the wall near which I was standing, pass over it and be home.

Knowing that my host was irregular as to his hours of return home at night, I was not surprised when I saw a figure lean over the wall for an instant within about 20 feet of me, pause a moment, and then cross over to the side on which I was. Seeing that he stopped, I spoke aloud these words, “Hello, Dan, is that you?”

Though I could discover the figure and recognize its movements, there was too great a shade thrown over the wall to enable me to distinguish a face so familiar to me. To my appeal there was no reply, and then in an instant the impression came upon me that if it really was my friend, he was testing my nerves. Up to this moment I never had a thought apart from him.

While I stood perfectly motionless, waiting for some recognition of my appeal, the figure advanced slowly in a direct line from the wall, leaving the shadow, and stopped before me and not 20 feet away from me. I saw at once that it was somebody I had never seen before. When in the light without even a weed to obstruct my vision, as soon as he stopped, I called, “Speak or I will fire!”

It was at this period that I observed especially the behavior of the dogs. Up to this time they had been quiet, lying on the grass, but now they both got up, and I felt on each side of me the pressure of their bodies. They were evidently frightened, and I saw that they were looking with every symptom of terror at the figure that stood so near us without a motion.

The figure never once turned its head directly toward me but seemed to fix its look eastward over where the pine-trees broke the clear horizon on the murder-hill. This inert pose was preserved but for a moment, for as quick as the flash of gunpowder it wheeled as upon a pivot and, making one movement as of a man commencing to step out toward the wall, was gone!

To my vision it never crossed the space between where it had stood and the outline of the shade thrown by the trees upon the ground. One step after turning was all I saw, and then it vanished. What I saw I relate exactly as it happened. Can I describe this figure you will ask?

It looked like painted air. There was no elaborate appearance, indeed I could not make out the fashion of the garment. I was more occupied in the effort to recognize a human being in the figure that was before me. He looked dark grey from head to foot. Body he had, legs, arms, and a head, but the face I could not distinctly see, as he turned it from me.

***

This story about murders and ghosts on and around the Bussey estate is the most interesting thing I’ve read about Jamaica Plain/Roslindale so far!

Free history lesson in Jamaica Plain – walking tours have started!

Friday, May 14th, 2010

Last Saturday, May 8 began the annual walking tour season of the Jamaica Plain Historical Society.

Horse-drawn wagon on Centre St.

Horse-drawn wagon on Centre St in Jamaica Plain

2010 Historic Walking Tours
All tours are free and open to the public and are offered on Saturdays at 11:00 a.m. sharp. Tours last approximately one hour except for the Jamaica Pond tour which lasts 90 minutes due to the longer distance covered. Tours are canceled in case of rain. No reservations are required. Please join us and bring along a friend!

Tour Date Location Tour Date Location
May 8 Monument Sq. July 24 Green Street
May 15 Sumner Hill July 31 Woodbourne
May 22 Stony Brook August 7 Jamaica Pond
May 29 Hyde Square August 14 Monument Sq.
June 5 Green Street August 21 Sumner Hill
June 12 Woodbourne August 28 Stony Brook
June 19 Jamaica Pond Sept 4 Hyde Square
June 26 Monument Sq. Sept 11 Green Street
July 3 Sumner Hill Sept 18 Woodbourne
July 10 Stony Brook Sept 25 Jamaica Pond
July 17 Hyde Square

Mystery House in Cambridge

Sunday, March 28th, 2010

Okay, my pick for Home of the Week isn’t even in Jamaica Plain. I know, I know, I’m not following the rules, but hey I’m the boss right? Whose blog is this anyway?

I was on a tour today through Cambridge, Somerville and Jamaica Plain. About midway we had a look at a condo on Elm Street near Inman Square. This home was across the street. It captivated me. It’s right next to the well known restaurant Oleana, but from that side it’s not quite as dramatic. However if you swing around to the Elm Street side you’ll see it’s real character.

The original structure is clearly mid 1800s but a garage of sorts with a greenhouse has been added to the top. It has an amazing door on the garage, but also a sort or Hobbit door under the front porch that must access the basement.

I’d give my left leg to see the inside. I’ll do some more research and let you know what I find out. If anyone has a historic tidbit they’d like to share about this house or others -chime in…

Jamaica Plain Tuesday Club – Annual Theater Dinner Party

Wednesday, April 8th, 2009

Dine at the 18th century Loring-Greenough House and then stroll across the street to the Footlight Club in historic Eliot Hall. Enjoy a production of “Gypsy” – the 1959 musical with music by Styne and Sondheim.
Dress Theatrical.

$50 for Dinner + Show
$75 for Dinner + Show + First Ever After Party*
*Return to the Loring Greenough House after the show for an exclusive Speakeasy style party with vintage cocktails, cards and entertainment. Piano available, and feel free to bring your instruments.

All proceeds benefit the Loring-Greenough House. Tickets are limited.
Respond by April 10th. First come, first served.
For questions about the Theater Party:
call Robin Maxfield 617-293-8004

26 Green St. – Jamaica Plain Home of The Week

Wednesday, February 11th, 2009

This week I had the pleasure of working with a fantastic couple named Jenny & Richard. They were previously working mainly with my wife Christine but as she is away in Hong Kong, I was championing their cause. Jenny spotted this “For Sale By Owner” or FSBO on Craigslist and gave me a call. We were in to have a look at it on Saturday with many other prospective buyers. This transaction reminded me of how important the relationship with a buyer’s agent can be. This was a true team effort. The client, Jenny, actually spotted the property first, but because of my resources I was quickly able to research and value the property so we were ready to go as soon as we had seen the property. We crafted a solid, well-written offer and wham-o! For more info on how Buyer’s Agency works check out the FAQ on our website.

JP Home of The Week

One of the sellers came from a family chocked full of Realtors so I’m surprised they tried to go it on their own, but in this case it appears to have worked out. There were three offers that we beat out to get under contract. I think in this case the house really speaks for itself. I get the opportunity to see a great deal of real estate as you can imagine. Most property that I walk into doesn’t do all that much for me. You get a little numb to it all I guess. I always want to redesign or start knocking walls down or the like.

Not here. This condo is very charming and the location doesn’t get any better. It’s literally 1 block from Centre Street.

Being a bit of a history buff, the architecture seems to have remained very much intact. It appears that the home looks very much like it did when it was built. Even the old slate roof is still in pretty good condition.

Master Suite with skylights and reading alcove

There is a spacious foyer with original staircase and knule posts that climbs to the second floor where you are greeted by a pleasant glass door to the living space. Despite being right in the middle of it – it feels fairly private and comfy. The current owners took the previous renovation a step further and renovated the bathrooms. Big improvement. This is not a huge unit, but at 1400 square feet or so it feels “just right” as Goldilocks put it.

I think the plan and the design is outstanding and I would have a very hard time picking my favorite room, but I’m partial to the kitchen/sun porch looking out over Warren Square. Congratulations to Jenny & Richard for finding such a spectacular new home! May you live many happy years here.

Kitchen and window to sunporch

Kitchen and window to sunporch